When asked, Joel McCrea proudly named his occupation as ‘rancher’. His first ranch was purchased in 1933 and he lived on that same land for 57 years, until his passing in 1990. Happily for Westernistas (and others), the ranch still exists. And, it occasionally opens to the public for events. One of the co-administratin’ e-pards of Jeff Arnold’s West recently had the opportunity to visit.
McCrea performed in over 80 films, a radio show, and a television show. But as a young man, he dreamed of owning a ranch. As a young actor, he was encouraged to pursue this dream by renowned humorist and actor Will Rogers, with whom McCrea appeared in two movies (Lightin’ in 1930, Business and Pleasure in 1932). The Oklahoman’s encouragement extended to his banker. In 1933, that banker approved a loan – without collateral – for McCrea to purchase about 1,000 acres of ranch land in eastern Ventura County, some 40 miles from Hollywood.
The year 1933 was an important one for Joel McCrea, since he also married fellow actor (and four-time co-star) Frances Dee. The family home, in the emerging California ranch style (naturally), was built in 1934.
Notice the ‘California Farmer’ sign above the door
Ranch docents emphasize that McCrea did not just live on his ranch land; he worked it. A prominently-displayed picture shows the erstwhile actor behind a horse-drawn plow (the ranch did not mechanize until the late 40s). McCrea, his sons, and a full-time foreman tended to 150-200 head of cattle and dry-farmed barley, oats, and wheat.
Over time, more land was acquired. Sources vary on the actual acreage, but the McCrea Ranch apparently encompassed 2,400 – 3,000 acres at its greatest extent.
In the 1950s, economic conditions for agriculture in southern California declined. Sprawl from the Los Angeles metropolitan area spread inexorably into surrounding counties. Land prices increased.
Ultimately, Joel and Frances began to divest themselves of the home ranch’s acreage. McCrea sold 540 acres in 1959, receiving $1.2 million; in 1963, 1,000 acres were sold for $3 million.* Rather than cattle, the northern portion of Thousand Oaks, California stands on land previously owned by Joel McCrea.
Donations were also part of the divesture. Today, the area around the ranch is dotted with literal and figurative signs of the McCrea family’s largesse. The 75-acre Joel McCrea Wildlife preserve is just south of the ranch. The Conejo Valley YMCA, with its pictured sign, is across the road from the preserve. In nearby Camarillo, the gymnasium of the Camarillo Boys and Girls club is named for the actor.
In 1995, the McCrea family arranged for the local Conejo Recreation and Park District to acquire the property. The McCrea Ranch, a unique intersection of Hollywood history and California ranch culture, became a public institution.
Related to that intersection, the ranch was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1997. The designation was, of course, partly due to the connection with Joel and Frances Dee McCrea. But only partly. The designation was also due to architect John Byers, who designed the McCreas’ home, and the property’s succession of Spanish, Belgian, and French owners in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. (The ranch’s Bunk House was built around 1890 by Belgian August Dumortier). The designation’s documentation is interesting reading and can be viewed here.
The park district opens the ranch for scheduled events. The summer months feature a monthly film series in which a Joel or Frances film is screened under the stars on ranch grounds for a nominal fee. The 2024 offerings included Buffalo Bill and The Tall Stranger. An open house usually is held around Joel’s birthday. The district’s website provides the schedule of events.
During events, visitors can tour the ‘lower’, or western, part of the ranch. This part includes the Visitor’s Center (constructed in 2011), the Milk House, the Shop, and the Bunk House, all of which are immediately off Moorpark Road.
The family home is located in the upper, or eastern, part of the ranch. It is not usually included in events, as it is 3/4 of a mile from the lower ranch. The home *is* opened for tours during the annual Cowboy Cookout in May, the primary fund-raiser for the foundation established by grandson Wyatt McCrea to support the ranch.
For those interested, the New Movie magazine provides a glimpse of the family home. As of 1934, anyway.
The ranch is a mere four miles from an inevitable sprawling strip center and its Target and TJ Maxx , but feels much more remote. It lies at the foot of the historic Norwegian Grade. This stretch of road, so-called because it was built by ill-fated Norwegian settlers with hand tools and 60 pounds of dynamite, ascends a steep hillside into the city of Thousand Oaks.
A picture of Joel and Frances greets those who enter the Visitors Center. One side of the Center shows a video hosted by a friend of the noble genre, actor Bruce Boxleitner; the other has displays of memorabilia, pictures, and text panels with information about the couple.
Besides the Visitors Center, the buildings of the lower ranch are utilitarian. These are structures built for purpose, not for show. Their interest comes from the sense of place provided by them, the brusque beauty of the landscape which frames them, and the objects within them.
The Shop, for example, houses McCrea’s 1947 Ford pick-up and the ranch’s first tractor.
Multiple sources reference McCrea driving to movie sets in an old pick-up
A closer look at the tractor:
The historic Bunk House provides the most personal glimpse into the ranch lives of Joel and Frances McCrea. With four compact rooms and approximately 500 square feet of space, the Bunk House served as Joel’s office. The docent indicated that he had to stoop to enter the building.
After Joel’s death, Frances moved from the main house to the Bunk House.
A mug, milky white with ‘Frances’ in bold English script emblazoned on it, sits on a hutch in the kitchen. Several walls have phone numbers scribbled by Frances during calls.
Joel’s hats hang in the small bedroom.
During down time, Joel would retire to the Bunk House’s living room to watch football games on a battered black-and-white television. In an interview, son Peter McCrea said the main house had no televisions.
Besides the television, the living room displays items from Joel’s film work and some personal effects.
Battered television with shortwave radio
Grip and boots
As mentioned above, the McCrea Ranch is located in Ventura County, well outside of Los Angeles proper. The time required to drive to it will depend upon one’s starting point in the Los Angeles region as well as the notorious LA traffic. Still, for any e-pard near the Los Angeles area when the ranch has an event, a visit is a recommended experience.
*Los Angeles Times, Joel McCrea obituary, 10/21/1990
Links:
The Joel and Frances McCrea Ranch Foundation
Conejo Recreation and Park District
Camarillo Ranch Foundation Article: McCrea Ranch
The brand of the McCrea Ranch in concrete outside of the Bunk House